Truffles and Laundry

Everyone was tired by our last full day in Bologna, and knowing that we were heading into a whirlwind Venice trip, we decided to take an easy day. The kids rested at the apartment (i.e. spent time on their screens) and I convinced Jake to join me on a laundromat adventure. We found a cafΓ© close enough that we could periodically check on our laundry and settled in with an espresso and our books. We’re reading the same book incidentally, so we occasionally chatted about the plot, but mostly appreciated the quiet break.

When we were in Bologna in 2018 we stumbled upon an incredible restaurant. It was one of the better meals I’ve ever eaten. I didn’t think I liked truffles, but being a little tired of tomato sauce and cheese flavors I took a chance on a truffle spaghetti dish. It was so memorable that I wanted to find that restaurant again 6 and a half years later. While we were sitting at the cafΓ© waiting for our laundry I realized this was our last day and therefore our last chance to dine at this restaurant. The quest was on! I found the photos I took back in 2018 and found one that I was pretty sure was from the restaurant. Google photo stores the location metadata for photos so I was able to cross reference the location and find a restaurant there. Comparing the menu and photos of the inside to my picture, I had found it: Da Cesari! As soon as our laundry was done we rounded up the kids and headed out to try to eat lunch there. I figured that dinner on a Friday night would be busy so lunch would probably be our best option. Upon arrival we were told they were fully booked. I asked if we could make a reservations for dinner and again was told they were fully booked that day. I must have looked devastated because the owner came over and said they would fit us in right when they opened for dinner at 7:30pm. I once again had the truffle dish and once again it was incredible.

Sanctuary of San Luca and the porticos of Bologna

A few miles outside of Bologna at the top of a hill sits the Sanctuary of San Luca, a Basilica offering incredible views of Bologna and the surrounding landscape. Beginning in 1433 the faithful have participated in a religious pilgrimage up the long hill to the Sanctuary. The Portico di San Luca is a covered walkway consisting of 666 arches built between 1674 and 1793 that lead from the city of Bologna all the way up to the Sanctuary. At 3.8 kilometers long it’s the longest continuous portico in the world, and together with the numerous other porticos in Bologna, are a UNESCO world heritage site.

After waking up well rested today, we decided to check out the Sanctuary. The climb up the hill is strenuous, and we didn’t want to burn out, so we took the San Luca Express, a tourist train/bus that makes the climb while giving an audio tour of the history of the area. We bought our tickets and had a few minutes to spare, so we stopped in a cafΓ© for a quick Italian breakfast of espresso and croissants (and an orange…).

The breakfast orange saga, as told by Penelope: Phineas saw some oranges and asked for one. The employee was trying to explain that they were for fresh squeezed juice, and was asking Phineas if he wanted some orange juice but Phineas didn’t understand and kept asking for the orange. After several back and forths, the man just gave up and just handed Phineas the orange. While we waited for our espressos, Phineas hunched over the trashcan peeling his orange. I looked over and asked if he wanted help because his orange was peeled too deep and was covered in slippery juice. He said no but one minute later he had no orange and sheepishly explained that he accidently dropped it in the trach can. Since there was only an empty bottle or 2 in the trashcan, we told him that if he just washed if off in the bathroom it would be fine . Apparently he really wanted that orange so he got down on his knees and dug through the trash can until he retrieved it. As he was in the bathroom cleaning his orange the rest of us were joking that it couldn’t possibly get funnier. Buuutttt when he came out of the bathroom with his head down and NO orange we were confused until he said he was on take two of peeling the orange when he dropped it in the trash can AGAIN and gave up. WE LAUGHED LIKE CRAZY PEOPLE FOR 10 MINUTES STRAIGHT.

Heading into the bathroom with his orange

After breakfast we were off to the San Luca Express. I’ve been calling it a train/bus for lack of a better name. It’s basically an adult sized version of those little kid trains that tour around outdoor shopping malls. So it drives on the road like a bus instead of on a track like a train. And the sides are open for better views on the 30 minute ride. The Sanctuary was nice, but the views from the top of the hill were absolutely incredible. We paid for access to the very top of the Sanctuary and it was well worth the climb up the long circular stone staircase. Heading down the hill is way less work than climbing up the hill, so we decided to forgo the train/bus down and walk the 2+ miles of porticos. Near the end we passed through a more residential area of Bologna and stopped for a light lunch before our cooking class later in the evening.

The beginning of our adventure: exploring Bologna

We decided to book a walking tour of the historical center of Bologna to get our bearings and learn some history. It was maybe the worst tour I’ve ever been on, to the point of hilarity, but we did get to spend a couple of hours in the sunshine walking around the gastronomy capital of Italy. One of the selling points of the tour was the famous Basilica of San Petronio; unfortunately the tour guide didn’t get us there until it was closing for lunch. Perhaps we will go on our own tomorrow! About 2/3 of the way through the tour we passed by our apartment and Phineas escaped, taking the headset and audio thing with him. We had to sheepishly return it later in the the afternoon. We weren’t alone in our shock at how bad the tour was. 11 minutes after the tour was scheduled to end, the guide was still touring us around with no sign of stopping. Luckily one brave attendee saved us by saying she had to get somewhere; everyone else eagerly took that opportunity and ripped their headsets off to also end the tour as quickly as possible before she could resume. As soon as the guide walked away the several of the other attendees starting the debrief of how bizarrely terrible the tour was. We didn’t end up joining, but one of the families offered for all of us to meet at the Bascilica later that afternoon to try to tour on our own.

Views on our tour
The wedding room
Whispering corner
Old buildings have a lot of Minecraft features. Torch holder and horse tie.

After the tour we were hungry and found a sandwich shop for lunch. It was incredible. Mortadella is one of the specialties of Bologna, also know as “fat city”. It’s essentially baloney, but much better somehow. I had a mortadella sandwich on freshly made bread with an artichoke spread. Jake had a sandwich of ham with a tomato and onion chutney. Penelope had fresh bread with Nutella (anyone surprised?), and Phineas had a side of meatballs in red sauce with bread. Perfect. We did learn one cool fact about tortellini on the walking tour: Bologna specializes in little tortellini made with mortadella, other meat, and parmesan. According to our guide, the inspiration for tortellini was the navel of a beautiful woman. There was also something about looking through a keyhole that we didn’t fully understand. The kids found the legend a little weird and creepy, especially when the guide was pointing at Penelope’s belly button as she told it.

Penelope has been wanting to shop, so after dropping Phineas back at the apartment we wandered out. The biggest shopping score was a pair of new glasses for Penelope. We found a shop that made them in 20 minutes! With Penelope’s sight restored and full bellies after an amazing dinner we all went to bed and slept a solid 8-10 hours. Finally well rested and fully acclimated, we are ready for the next adventure in Bologna

Dad needed a break while the ladies were shopping